Hey everyone, Sulli here and I'm back with episode 2 of the Practice Tips series. Today, I'm bringing back an older topic from the previous series and mixing it up a little bit. As the title says, one of the best things to do is practice slowly. If you want to read the original article(and it's worth a look over, but nothing great): http://sulliadm.blogspot.com/2012/05/how-to-practice-episode-1-start-slow.html
Back to the topic, one of the more common problems in musicians is the desire to keep things fast, especially while practicing. While that is not a bad idea if you know what you're playing, the better option is to play slower than you think. The overall objective of practicing is to know what the music you are learning is, not just recognize it through finger motion. Learning it involves not only being able to play it, but to be able to play it starting from anywhere. In order to get that deep of learning something, one must practice slowly.
Another thing to remember when practicing slowly is everything that goes in behind the music, such as bowings/breath marks, articulations, the style of the piece, etc. Run through the piece multiple times at that tempo and do the following: 1st focus on the note accuracy; make sure you can play every note at that tempo and the pitch is correct. 2nd focus on the articulations and bowing/breath markings and enforce those because they are there to make the piece easier or to sound a certain way that the composer likes. Finally focus on the stylistics if there is a style listed.
The way to tell if you're starting off too slow is if you can follow the checklist above and not have any errors. Usually when I'm deciding where to start the tempo at, I usually start with the tempo as written, then dial it back 20. If that's too fast, then I go back in intervals of 5 or as close to that as you can get. After you have completed the song or section several times and feel comfortable speeding up, then do so slowly. Only make tempo jumps in increments of no more than 5 BPM (beats per minute). This insures you are sure you know what you are playing. This process is a long way, however the payoff is you are creating beautiful music. There will be times this will be cumbersome, annoying, and possibly time consuming but I promise this is the way professional musicians like to practice.
So, as you have hopefully seen this thought can be used as a good mentality to practice with whenever one may need it. If you like what you have read then don’t forget to Subscribe to the blog via email (to the right), YouTube, Facebook, Twitter or SoundCloud. As always, thanks for reading and remember to fear the cellos!
Showing posts with label chello. Show all posts
Showing posts with label chello. Show all posts
Wednesday, June 26, 2013
Thursday, April 11, 2013
Episode 1: What is Music? (based off the original episode "Musical Alphabet and Note Values")
http://sulliadm.blogspot.com/2012/03/episode-1-musical-alphabet-and-note.html
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Saturday, October 6, 2012
Review: Magic Rosin 3G Ultra
Before I start this review, I want to thank Sarah West for her sample of Magic Rosin's 3G Ultra (click here). This was unexpected but I am so thankful you sent them to me try test out! Now I have another review for you guys out there and thanks to a few anonymous viewers, I have a few changes to my post I want to see if it helps you guys out. For those who aren't regulars and would like to see more from the blog I will have a new post out over the weekend with a contest! So don't forget to checking in!!
Now, let's break down how I conducted my test. Like I said before with Magic Rosin's 3G rosin, I started out with the rosin the testers used regularly by playing a scale and something that they knew off the top of their heads and after running my absorbent microfiber cloth over their strings and bow I applied a generous amount of the Magic Rosin to their bow and they played the same thing. This time however, when it came to the bass players, we had a little debate over which was the best so we had to have a blind audition and I'll explain how that works later.
Since I was unable to get in touch with one of my violinist I used to test the 3G ultra I decided to not to test them for the time being but I feel that it might be too strong a rosin for them. Whenever I get a hold of them I will update the post with the results.
I got a hold of one of the violist I used to test the 3G and after we went through it I feel that it might have been border line between strong rosin and too much bite for them, but it all depends on the player's style and taste. The player and I both liked it a lot like that but I do know how one of the others is with their rosin and that probably wouldn't suit those style of players well. I would recommend this for an electric violist or someone who likes to play electric viola. I give it a 4/5 for viola.
Now, going into my personal range of specialty I spent almost a week testing the rosin with my cello and I think this IS the best rosin for cellos I've tried, which ranges from student quality to $35-40 professional rosin. I found this to give me the clarity I need while also projecting well and sticking to the strings. I ran this by a couple of other cellos and I was hearing the same results from them as I was from myself. This rosin is made for cellos except for students or cellist who use very sensitive strings. I give it a 5/5 for cello.
Finally, we have our tests from the bass players! I found this series of test (yes, it took multiple trials to get through all of the tests and make a well rounded decision!). We started out with the usual method of testing rosin and discovered the huge differences between other commercial rosins and Magic Rosin. The first is the clarity of rosin, which most are either gritty, muddy or don't give the projection that is desired. Magic Rosin went and not only made it clear but it also gave us a lot of projection that the other rosin's gave us. After a few tests like this we got to the point that we thought we were hearing things so we had a blind study between Magic Rosin 3G Ultra, Magic Rosin 3G, and two competitors rosin and acquired four identical bows. We went and rosined all of them up with some rosin and had a random person write down the bows rosin to when they handed it to us and hands down we felt the Rosin 3G Ultra had everything else beat. I give it a 5/5 for bass.
It is hard to believe that there is rosin that can be used for all four instruments but it really exists! And for the price of a few cakes of Magic Rosin, you are making a wise investment into not only yourself but your students if you teach privately or in public schools. For more about the rosin click on the link above. If you would like to follow the blog, follow me on Twitter (click here), Facebook (click here) or email me directly! I want everyone to message me by any (or all) of those methods above and tell me one thing you want to see changed or one thing you like about the blog and share this with a friend!
Now, let's break down how I conducted my test. Like I said before with Magic Rosin's 3G rosin, I started out with the rosin the testers used regularly by playing a scale and something that they knew off the top of their heads and after running my absorbent microfiber cloth over their strings and bow I applied a generous amount of the Magic Rosin to their bow and they played the same thing. This time however, when it came to the bass players, we had a little debate over which was the best so we had to have a blind audition and I'll explain how that works later.
Since I was unable to get in touch with one of my violinist I used to test the 3G ultra I decided to not to test them for the time being but I feel that it might be too strong a rosin for them. Whenever I get a hold of them I will update the post with the results.
I got a hold of one of the violist I used to test the 3G and after we went through it I feel that it might have been border line between strong rosin and too much bite for them, but it all depends on the player's style and taste. The player and I both liked it a lot like that but I do know how one of the others is with their rosin and that probably wouldn't suit those style of players well. I would recommend this for an electric violist or someone who likes to play electric viola. I give it a 4/5 for viola.
Now, going into my personal range of specialty I spent almost a week testing the rosin with my cello and I think this IS the best rosin for cellos I've tried, which ranges from student quality to $35-40 professional rosin. I found this to give me the clarity I need while also projecting well and sticking to the strings. I ran this by a couple of other cellos and I was hearing the same results from them as I was from myself. This rosin is made for cellos except for students or cellist who use very sensitive strings. I give it a 5/5 for cello.
Finally, we have our tests from the bass players! I found this series of test (yes, it took multiple trials to get through all of the tests and make a well rounded decision!). We started out with the usual method of testing rosin and discovered the huge differences between other commercial rosins and Magic Rosin. The first is the clarity of rosin, which most are either gritty, muddy or don't give the projection that is desired. Magic Rosin went and not only made it clear but it also gave us a lot of projection that the other rosin's gave us. After a few tests like this we got to the point that we thought we were hearing things so we had a blind study between Magic Rosin 3G Ultra, Magic Rosin 3G, and two competitors rosin and acquired four identical bows. We went and rosined all of them up with some rosin and had a random person write down the bows rosin to when they handed it to us and hands down we felt the Rosin 3G Ultra had everything else beat. I give it a 5/5 for bass.
It is hard to believe that there is rosin that can be used for all four instruments but it really exists! And for the price of a few cakes of Magic Rosin, you are making a wise investment into not only yourself but your students if you teach privately or in public schools. For more about the rosin click on the link above. If you would like to follow the blog, follow me on Twitter (click here), Facebook (click here) or email me directly! I want everyone to message me by any (or all) of those methods above and tell me one thing you want to see changed or one thing you like about the blog and share this with a friend!
Friday, September 28, 2012
How to Practice Episode 5: Play outside your box
Alfred 00-0483S Suzuki Cello School Cello Part- Volume 3 - Music Book
Alfred 00-0481S Suzuki Cello School Cello Part- Volume 2 - Music Book
Hello and welcome back to his segment of How to Practice. This
time I have a different (or at least less commonly thought about) technique for
helping you practice; Practice outside your comfort zone. This means a few
different things; like playing harder music or playing different music than
what your use to. I say that you should do all of that and more!
Many people who
don't like being outside the box are afraid of messing up and looking stupid
when they do. Don't be afraid to make mistakes when you’re playing! Just
believe in what you’re playing and if you mess up, then say "Ah well"
and shake it off. That is easier said than done, I know but sometimes you have
to get out of that block. As long as you’re not on stage giving a concert then
it shouldn't matter whether you make a mistake or two. The point is
as long as you’re learning something new and pushing your limits then you will
be fine! Challenges come and go all the time and the courage is in trying to
push your own limits because you are only limited to the extension of
your imagination and technical know-how. If that means you are just
starting out and know only how to produce a few "noises" or you are
like what I did the other day at the SC Cello Choir and was the only 1st chair
player in a couple of the rehearsals sight reading material and
techniques I had never seen before. The point is you need to not be limited to
what your mind knows what to do, but you should do what your mind thinks you
can't do because that is the only way to learn anything but especially music.
As I stated
before, I was the only cellist in Section I that didn't go to the advanced
orchestra rehearsal because I felt like it would be better if I made the pieces
I had sound the best I could get them to sound over being in both groups. That
is the only exception to my rule: If you don't feel comfortable preforming
something in the slightest, then don't add on. That only creates a train wreck.
You should push yourself but at the same time know where your limits to your
abilities are. You should aim a higher then you did before but not too high. If
you’re reading Suzuki Book 4, then aim for the 5th or maybe the 6th, but not
anything higher. For those who are learning through the Hal Leonard books, then
go one page to about 2 or 3 ahead but no more than that. You don't want to try
to push too much.
Now before I leave
you I had a question for you. Is there enough regular viewers to start a
contest on or what do you guys think I should do? You can email me, tweet me, use my hashtag, or facebook me. If you want to be heard, have a
question, want to tell me how I'm doing or just want to make a suggestion on
something to talk about or more review ideas. I'm here to talk to you about
music! Also, if you want to create fan art I would love to see it! If not I
will create a new logo soon enough!
Alfred 00-0481S Suzuki Cello School Cello Part- Volume 2 - Music Book
Sunday, September 23, 2012
Review: Magic Rosin 3G
Hello everyone, here is the long awaited review on "Magic Rosin 3G" by Magic Rosin. I have spent a few weeks working on giving you guys the best review I can by testing everything on all 4 instruments. I was very skeptical at first, but just a heads up I was happily mistaken in that prejudgment.
Here is my method of how I tested the rosin. First I started by taking my Microfiber cloth and cleaned off the strings of the instruments, rubbed it over the bows to knock off any rosin that would lead to a cross contamination. Then the person testing applied the rosin they use normally and played me a scale and a run threw of whatever they wanted to play for me. Afterwards, I ran the rag over the bow and strings and then gave them the Magic Rosin and they played the same thing as before.
First let's start with the violins. I started testing with 5 violins, 2 who have been playing for 3 years and 3 who have been taking private lessons. We started with a simple scale of their pick with the rosin they normally used (mostly Super Sensitive's basic rosin, but one was using a special rosin that we referred to as "star dust" rosin). They played their music and then we cleaned the instruments off and used the Magic Rosin and the first big thing that I noticed was the clarity of the instruments. It sounded so much clearer than the first time! They said they had to use a little more arm to get a louder sound, but just off of my random sampling of the students, if all of the violins used this rosin the clarity would come out. The higher registers weren't over played, and it held it's ground with the everything I could ask of them. The only drawback that they didn't have any for themselves. I rate it a 5/5 for violin.
Now, onward to violas which I will admit now wasn't my best test sample. The people that was ready for the instruments didn't show up, however I had some others to help test this rosin. I had two people test this out on their violas, both of which didn't have too much experience playing. They both used Super Sensitive's basic rosin and they both had the same result as the violins; the clarity and the overall tone came out for the viola. I will need to do an update to this post in the near future when I can get my "expert" to test this stuff for me and give you a better and more detailed review, but I give it a 4.5/5 for viola.
I have personally spent a good couple of weeks tearing into this rosin on my cello and I can tell you, I have never used anything like it! It is in fact some of the best rosin I have used for my cello; it sticks to the strings well but it doesn't make the sound grainy. The only problems I have with it is I had a few moments where it might have been not sticking enough but I tend to play more along the lines of Apocalyptica so I like bite to my playing but that was during my initial testing. Since then I haven't had any problems with it and the same went when I was testing at the school. The students who used it on cello loved it and had the same argument; it wasn't sticking well at first but the issue cleared up after a little bit of use. Overall I think this is a great rosin for cellos, but I will need to test the 3G Ultra to see if it has the problem cleared up for cellos. I give it a 4.5/5 for cello. *UPDATE* I have completed a Magic Rosin 3G Ultra review (click here)
When I first read the rosin online and saw it was for all four instruments I was very skeptical; like most people online reading the same description, so I sat down with some of the more advanced bass players at the school and said, "let's run this rosin down on the basses and see if it really works well on the instruments". So with the bass players we got the rosin they used (Pops and Carlsson) and we spent a good half hour running blind test after blind test and seeing which we liked better. Here is our overall impression with each rosin: Pops gave us the greatest bite between all of them but it tended to sound very grainy at times. Carlsson had some bite but no where as much as Pops but the tone was great. Magic Rosin was the best middle ground for bass in our opinion; more bite than the Carlsson with just as much clarity but not as much bite as the Pops. Something else one of the bass players brought up to me during testing was they had a better coverage of rosin than they did with either brand. The way the Pops worked for me was it gave a lot of slick spots and places on the string that it wouldn't cover very well and would have to fight to get the bow to work. The same thing with the Carlssons; it gave us a lot more coverage but we still kept hitting slick spots on the strings. The Magic Rosin fixed that problem very well and didn't have that problem when testing. I felt like it was good for bass but if you like a lot of bass sounds from your group or yourself try the 3G Ultra. I give it a 4/5 for bass. *UPDATE* I have completed a Magic Rosin 3G Ultra review (click here)
Overall, for the money you get a great grip from the rosin and that does kind of trip me out that it makes the bass sound great without over gripping the violins and viola bows! It really did astonish me while testing, I never thought about this being a possibility and especially for the price! I think this rosin should be in EVERY starting up orchestra classroom if not every classroom. There isn't anything else out there like it on the market that I can find. I give the rosin a 4.5/5. To view my Magic Rosin 3G Ultra review click here.
If you like this review and want to see more, don't forget to share it or follow me on either the Facebook Fan Page or the Twitter page!
Here is my method of how I tested the rosin. First I started by taking my Microfiber cloth and cleaned off the strings of the instruments, rubbed it over the bows to knock off any rosin that would lead to a cross contamination. Then the person testing applied the rosin they use normally and played me a scale and a run threw of whatever they wanted to play for me. Afterwards, I ran the rag over the bow and strings and then gave them the Magic Rosin and they played the same thing as before.
First let's start with the violins. I started testing with 5 violins, 2 who have been playing for 3 years and 3 who have been taking private lessons. We started with a simple scale of their pick with the rosin they normally used (mostly Super Sensitive's basic rosin, but one was using a special rosin that we referred to as "star dust" rosin). They played their music and then we cleaned the instruments off and used the Magic Rosin and the first big thing that I noticed was the clarity of the instruments. It sounded so much clearer than the first time! They said they had to use a little more arm to get a louder sound, but just off of my random sampling of the students, if all of the violins used this rosin the clarity would come out. The higher registers weren't over played, and it held it's ground with the everything I could ask of them. The only drawback that they didn't have any for themselves. I rate it a 5/5 for violin.
Now, onward to violas which I will admit now wasn't my best test sample. The people that was ready for the instruments didn't show up, however I had some others to help test this rosin. I had two people test this out on their violas, both of which didn't have too much experience playing. They both used Super Sensitive's basic rosin and they both had the same result as the violins; the clarity and the overall tone came out for the viola. I will need to do an update to this post in the near future when I can get my "expert" to test this stuff for me and give you a better and more detailed review, but I give it a 4.5/5 for viola.
I have personally spent a good couple of weeks tearing into this rosin on my cello and I can tell you, I have never used anything like it! It is in fact some of the best rosin I have used for my cello; it sticks to the strings well but it doesn't make the sound grainy. The only problems I have with it is I had a few moments where it might have been not sticking enough but I tend to play more along the lines of Apocalyptica so I like bite to my playing but that was during my initial testing. Since then I haven't had any problems with it and the same went when I was testing at the school. The students who used it on cello loved it and had the same argument; it wasn't sticking well at first but the issue cleared up after a little bit of use. Overall I think this is a great rosin for cellos, but I will need to test the 3G Ultra to see if it has the problem cleared up for cellos. I give it a 4.5/5 for cello. *UPDATE* I have completed a Magic Rosin 3G Ultra review (click here)
When I first read the rosin online and saw it was for all four instruments I was very skeptical; like most people online reading the same description, so I sat down with some of the more advanced bass players at the school and said, "let's run this rosin down on the basses and see if it really works well on the instruments". So with the bass players we got the rosin they used (Pops and Carlsson) and we spent a good half hour running blind test after blind test and seeing which we liked better. Here is our overall impression with each rosin: Pops gave us the greatest bite between all of them but it tended to sound very grainy at times. Carlsson had some bite but no where as much as Pops but the tone was great. Magic Rosin was the best middle ground for bass in our opinion; more bite than the Carlsson with just as much clarity but not as much bite as the Pops. Something else one of the bass players brought up to me during testing was they had a better coverage of rosin than they did with either brand. The way the Pops worked for me was it gave a lot of slick spots and places on the string that it wouldn't cover very well and would have to fight to get the bow to work. The same thing with the Carlssons; it gave us a lot more coverage but we still kept hitting slick spots on the strings. The Magic Rosin fixed that problem very well and didn't have that problem when testing. I felt like it was good for bass but if you like a lot of bass sounds from your group or yourself try the 3G Ultra. I give it a 4/5 for bass. *UPDATE* I have completed a Magic Rosin 3G Ultra review (click here)
Overall, for the money you get a great grip from the rosin and that does kind of trip me out that it makes the bass sound great without over gripping the violins and viola bows! It really did astonish me while testing, I never thought about this being a possibility and especially for the price! I think this rosin should be in EVERY starting up orchestra classroom if not every classroom. There isn't anything else out there like it on the market that I can find. I give the rosin a 4.5/5. To view my Magic Rosin 3G Ultra review click here.
If you like this review and want to see more, don't forget to share it or follow me on either the Facebook Fan Page or the Twitter page!
Thursday, September 20, 2012
Episode 7: Timbre and the Importance of Tone Control
Hello and welcome back everyone to something more exciting than all the reviews I have been doing. If I have bored you from them, I'm sorry but some people were asking me to do some reviews, and if you have any request don't be afraid to ask me! I love doing reviews for people and helping people if they need help. Anyways, on the the lesson at hand: What is Timbre and why does it matter to me?
First off Timbre or tone color is the sound that an instruments produces. Every instrument has it's own sound that it produces and its the only type of sound that can produce it. For example, you listen to a piccolo and listen to a flute or bassoon you can tell that the qualities of the sound have a lot of similar qualities but they aren't the exact same. The piccolo is a higher and sounds more "whimsy" and "In air floating" feel than the flute or bassoon does, but they all have a feeling of a wind instrument. Now add a cello to the mix and you hear a new feel to the music, which is a more earthy feeling that is produced from the violins, violas, cellos and bass. Every instrument has its advantages and disadvantages revolving around tone color and it effects the overall feeling of the orchestra. That is one of many reasons symphonic music is written with so many instruments as well, the composer wants to fill in every gap that he wants to be filled in and cause the piece to sound complete. It makes the piece sound better, and that is also the art of composing; Knowing how to make a one lined melody fit into the best possible group of instruments.
So now you're asking; why do I need to know this? The answer is you need to be aware of the differences in all music in order to be a better musician. If you know how everything links together then you become a better musician. There are reason why Bach wrote the suites for cello and not violin, and why he wrote the violin concerto for violin and not cello.
Now Tone Color is a different, but very important thing to talk about. Tone color is the type of sound you are producing from the instrument. It is similar to timbre in the way that it is left to the composer to control, however this is controlled by the instrument. The easiest way to explain this is adding a mute to an instrument. It not only softens the music, but it changes the overall sound of the instrument from blocking some of the vibrations. This is crucial because sometime you need the soft, but broad sound from an instrument, or sometimes you need a loud, harsh sound. Strings players achieve that by several ways, first being the mute. We add on a mute to soften the sound and change the overall sound. 2nd we can change the position of the bow. If we play more up towards the fingerboard we get a softer sound; sul tasto, or up towards the bridge; ponticello. Finally changing fingerings for a run can change the overall tone of a piece. For band and choir, there are mutes or some kind of tone changing methods as well.
Monday, September 10, 2012
Review: Evah Pirazzi and Spirocore Strings
Hello everyone, welcome back to the music theory blog! I have a review for you guys, and I've been testing these products for a few months now to get you the best review I can give! Today I am reviewing Pirastro Evah Pirazzi Soloist A and D and Thomastik Infeld Spirocore G and C on my 1992 Spainhour cello.
To begin let's start with what I was starting with before I changed over. I was using Pirastro Chromcor, which is an ok set for someone starting out but beyond that the strings aren't good at all, not to mention my set was pretty old. Very bland tone, no volume or anything a professional cellist would need for his/her cello to sounds great. The only reason I had them on my cello is because it was what came with my cello when I got it at Christmas from my parents and I wasn't able to afford any new strings. However, with my graduation money I received, and after a lot of reviews, interviews with the professors at Winthrop and a rough decision I decided to go with them and I must say, they are amazing.
The first thing I noticed with the first time I played them on my cello was the amount of volume they produced. I was use to pushing and digging into my cello to get any type of volume from my cello and just keeping the dynamics at around a mezzoforte to what I was use to nearly blew me out of my seat when it came from the new strings. The other major difference is the amount of overall tone color and projection. The Evah's gave me a feeling of warmth and a lot of depth that I love hearing. They didn't overkill the higher register either. When you play most regular notes on a cello, some strings tend to thin out the tone and lead to nasty sounds from the notes. However, the Evahs don't do that, they make more of a rounder, thicker tone. The Spirocores are the same way, but they have a little less tone color than I would like but they make it up in the projection! Whenever you play a note on the C, you feel it! That's what makes Spirocores so popular among cellist; we like the feeling of making sure we are heard as far away as possible, especially on the lower registers!
However the main drawback from these are the price of each set. The Evah mediums are usually around $220 for a whole set, or around $60 for just A and D. The Soloist are about $235 a set or $75 for the two. As for Spirocore, they aren't as bad. A set of Spirocore Chrome is usually around $135 or $100 for the G and C, however the tungsten strings are about $240 for a set or $105 just for the C!
Overall, I say they are a must for a musician who wants to expand his sound quality and if they have already gone for cheaper stuff like Heliocore, I recommend they upgrade to this. The set up I have is a staple in professional orchestras around the world and if you can afford to try them, you should!
To begin let's start with what I was starting with before I changed over. I was using Pirastro Chromcor, which is an ok set for someone starting out but beyond that the strings aren't good at all, not to mention my set was pretty old. Very bland tone, no volume or anything a professional cellist would need for his/her cello to sounds great. The only reason I had them on my cello is because it was what came with my cello when I got it at Christmas from my parents and I wasn't able to afford any new strings. However, with my graduation money I received, and after a lot of reviews, interviews with the professors at Winthrop and a rough decision I decided to go with them and I must say, they are amazing.
The first thing I noticed with the first time I played them on my cello was the amount of volume they produced. I was use to pushing and digging into my cello to get any type of volume from my cello and just keeping the dynamics at around a mezzoforte to what I was use to nearly blew me out of my seat when it came from the new strings. The other major difference is the amount of overall tone color and projection. The Evah's gave me a feeling of warmth and a lot of depth that I love hearing. They didn't overkill the higher register either. When you play most regular notes on a cello, some strings tend to thin out the tone and lead to nasty sounds from the notes. However, the Evahs don't do that, they make more of a rounder, thicker tone. The Spirocores are the same way, but they have a little less tone color than I would like but they make it up in the projection! Whenever you play a note on the C, you feel it! That's what makes Spirocores so popular among cellist; we like the feeling of making sure we are heard as far away as possible, especially on the lower registers!
However the main drawback from these are the price of each set. The Evah mediums are usually around $220 for a whole set, or around $60 for just A and D. The Soloist are about $235 a set or $75 for the two. As for Spirocore, they aren't as bad. A set of Spirocore Chrome is usually around $135 or $100 for the G and C, however the tungsten strings are about $240 for a set or $105 just for the C!
Overall, I say they are a must for a musician who wants to expand his sound quality and if they have already gone for cheaper stuff like Heliocore, I recommend they upgrade to this. The set up I have is a staple in professional orchestras around the world and if you can afford to try them, you should!
Thursday, August 30, 2012
Episode 6: Simple and Compound Meter
Alfred 00-16643 Essential Dictionary of Music Theory - Music Book (Google Affiliate Ad)
Hello and welcome back to the Music Theory Blog! Today's long awaited episode is about the difference between Simple and Compound Meter. I am here to help you along with understanding the material better by showing examples of what I am explaining and we'll see if this makes it better to understand!
Now first, for those who are new comers, you must understand what the time signature is. The Time Signature is the symbol that shows musicians how many notes are in a measure and what note value gets the beat. For Example, 4/4 time means there are 4 notes in a measure that a quarter note gets the beat. If you need more help with understanding this, refer back to episode 4.
In order to understand why the two types of time signatures are important, you must understand what they are. A Simple Meter is a meter that's time signature breaks down into two parts. For example, you can divide a whole note into two half notes, a half note into two quarter notes, and so on. This is what most music is written as, which are 4/4, 3/4, and 2/4. Any variation of the signature will work, for example you can say 2/8, 3/2, or 2.16 as long as the measure breaks down into two parts anything is possible. Here is an example of a piece that is in 4/4, "Prelude" from Bach's Cello Suite No. 1. Some other examples of music you might see with a simple meter is Common Time and Cut Time. Common time (
) is simply another way to write out 4/4 and Cut time (
) is a simpler way to write 2/2.
Now, the difference from a simple meter to a compound meter is a Compound Meter divides the beat into 3 parts rather than 2. For example a commonly seen compound meter you may rn into is 6/8. There are 6 beats in a measure but most of the time it is felt in two parts and is conducted the same. The most common types of compound meter are 6/8, 9/8 and 12/8 but changing the lower number would work the same. Here is an audible example of "Jesu, Joy of Man's Desiring" which is written in 9/8.
If you like the new way I constructed the lessons, let me know by sending me an email, or message me on Twitter.
Hello and welcome back to the Music Theory Blog! Today's long awaited episode is about the difference between Simple and Compound Meter. I am here to help you along with understanding the material better by showing examples of what I am explaining and we'll see if this makes it better to understand!
Now first, for those who are new comers, you must understand what the time signature is. The Time Signature is the symbol that shows musicians how many notes are in a measure and what note value gets the beat. For Example, 4/4 time means there are 4 notes in a measure that a quarter note gets the beat. If you need more help with understanding this, refer back to episode 4.
In order to understand why the two types of time signatures are important, you must understand what they are. A Simple Meter is a meter that's time signature breaks down into two parts. For example, you can divide a whole note into two half notes, a half note into two quarter notes, and so on. This is what most music is written as, which are 4/4, 3/4, and 2/4. Any variation of the signature will work, for example you can say 2/8, 3/2, or 2.16 as long as the measure breaks down into two parts anything is possible. Here is an example of a piece that is in 4/4, "Prelude" from Bach's Cello Suite No. 1. Some other examples of music you might see with a simple meter is Common Time and Cut Time. Common time (
Now, the difference from a simple meter to a compound meter is a Compound Meter divides the beat into 3 parts rather than 2. For example a commonly seen compound meter you may rn into is 6/8. There are 6 beats in a measure but most of the time it is felt in two parts and is conducted the same. The most common types of compound meter are 6/8, 9/8 and 12/8 but changing the lower number would work the same. Here is an audible example of "Jesu, Joy of Man's Desiring" which is written in 9/8.
If you like the new way I constructed the lessons, let me know by sending me an email, or message me on Twitter.
Monday, July 30, 2012
Episode Recap 1: Episodes 1-5 Part 1
Hello and welcome back! Now before I begin the recap let's go over a few things. 1st off, you may have noticed the button above me. Finances are really low, especially if you want more reviews so please donate anything you feel comfortable donating to me. I am wanting to do more reviews and if you want to see more, then any money is good money! With that said, I promise I WILL NOT go crazy with the button! The only time I will post it is on general recaps (like such), and reviews. I want to provide everyone with a few service to learn music theory, tricks from professionals, and reviews so you aren't wasting your money on pointless or terrible stuff for your instruments (and yes, I have used some terrible stuff, and amazing stuff so I know what's good and what's not).
With that out of the way, I bet you're wondering "What's an 'Episode Recap'?". I feel after so many episodes on all my topics, I will post one giant summery for you on what is in that section. For today, this episode recap is on episodes 1-5, which are:
-Episode 1: Musical Alphabet and Note Values
-Episode 1: Musical Alphabet and Note Values
Now how this is going to work is like a review over the selections, and explain some harder to explain things.
Episode 1:
Episode 1:
This was a presentation-Only entry so most people didn't read this entry, so I will count this as the actual lesson. There are two main elements when reading music: a Note and a Tone. A note is the visual representation of a sound (♪). The actual sound that goes with it is the tone. We could say that the note is an A, or a C but we don't see that when we are watching a group play: We hear the tones of the chord(s) the person or people playing make but we don't see the (♪) in front of us unless you brought sheet music with you.
When you link them together in any pattern going up or down until you repeat the first note, you get a Scale. There is no simple number of notes in a scale, because there are so many different types of scales. However, there is a "Western" standard of scales, which has 8 tones in a repeating pattern. I will discuss this more later on in the episode review.
Now we have to discuss the Musical Alphabet. This is the way musicians learn their notes, and it is always repeating: A, B, C, D, E, F, G.
A standard Octave or simply the "Western" style of 8 note scales, is the repetition of one note. For example take a C scale. If we wrote it out we would have C, D, E, F, G, A, B, C. The bold C is an octave higher than the one we started on. This works out on the entire musical alphabet.
Now, we talk about basic note values. They work the same was as fractions, which is they break down and are seen as fractions, like for example ♪ is an eighth note while ♫ is two eighth notes or a quarter note. The way the notes flow is demonstrated in the following picture:The top note is a whole note, and it breaks down into two half notes. each half note breaks down into two quarter notes and so on all the way down the line. This is the proper way to subdivide notes. Now we must figure out how this fits into a staff. A Staff is a bar with 5 lines and 4 spaces that fit together and are split to make Measures. This will be further explained in a later chapter.
Episode 2:
Going back to notes on a staff, you can have either Sharps, Flats, or Naturals. Naturals are notes that haven't been altered and these are the white keys on a piano. Then if you take that note and go up a half step (going from a white key UP to a black key) your going from a natural to a sharp. When you go down a half step (going from a white key DOWN to a black key) your going from a natural to a flat. *Editor's Note* I just realized there was a glitch in the episode, and I fixed it so it's legible.
Going back to notes on a staff, you can have either Sharps, Flats, or Naturals. Naturals are notes that haven't been altered and these are the white keys on a piano. Then if you take that note and go up a half step (going from a white key UP to a black key) your going from a natural to a sharp. When you go down a half step (going from a white key DOWN to a black key) your going from a natural to a flat. *Editor's Note* I just realized there was a glitch in the episode, and I fixed it so it's legible.
Episode 3:
There are 2 major clefts to playing most instruments. You have Treble, or the G cleft, which is the higher side and you have the Bass, or the F cleft, uses the lower side. Back to the discussion on scales. The "western" or non-asian countries use a standard for scales which goes with the "standard" of 8 notes that repeat at the base note but at a distance of an octave. For example: C Major is C, D, E, F, G, A, B, C.
Monday, July 16, 2012
How to Practice Episode 4: Practice the Basics
Welcome back everyone! Now I know it can get very annoying to practice scales over and over again but you have to know your basics. There are many reasons why you need to know them, such as:
1). The basic skills of your instrument is what makes you a musician. If you didn't know how to play simple stuff, then how could you play the more complicated? For example how can you play work by Bach and Beethoven when you don't know the simple stuff.
2). There are crucial skills you can practice on scales that makes your whole style of playing better if you practice them on scales. For example, vibrato is a great example that you should practice on scales. Vibrato adds so much tonal flare to music, and is probably the biggest divider between musicians. However, it can be a hassle at times to practice so remember that an hour a week of nothing but good practicing is better than 3 hours a day of bad practice.
3). Practicing the easy stuff helps you be able to do things like improvising from being able to tell the chord progression and scales in the music and being better acquainted with your instrument. That is a huge factor when it comes to improving, because the less you are close to your instrument the more nerve wracking it will be. Your instrument is like your best friend, especially when your alone on a stage that has been lighted up.
1). The basic skills of your instrument is what makes you a musician. If you didn't know how to play simple stuff, then how could you play the more complicated? For example how can you play work by Bach and Beethoven when you don't know the simple stuff.
2). There are crucial skills you can practice on scales that makes your whole style of playing better if you practice them on scales. For example, vibrato is a great example that you should practice on scales. Vibrato adds so much tonal flare to music, and is probably the biggest divider between musicians. However, it can be a hassle at times to practice so remember that an hour a week of nothing but good practicing is better than 3 hours a day of bad practice.
3). Practicing the easy stuff helps you be able to do things like improvising from being able to tell the chord progression and scales in the music and being better acquainted with your instrument. That is a huge factor when it comes to improving, because the less you are close to your instrument the more nerve wracking it will be. Your instrument is like your best friend, especially when your alone on a stage that has been lighted up.
Monday, July 2, 2012
Review: D'Addario Helicore Cello Strings
Now, for those of you who are new to my blog I am a intermediate cellist. I have been playing for almost 7 years, which to most people is just a drop in the bucket but the benefit from my perspective is I am going to college in a few short months (as of now 2 and a few days) so I know where the deals are and know what to get so you get bang for your buck.
Now, for years I've been taught from my teachers that just because you have a cheap cello doesn't mean you have to think it will always sound bad. For people who are just beginning and have a student instrument, there are several changes to your instrument that will improve the tone and overall characteristics of it. The first, and usually the most effective, way to get the sounds you want is to get new strings. For people starting out the best strings you can get for cheap are D'Addario's Helicore. They are made strong, and they are made to last for a long time. Before I changed cellos, they were the only ones I would use on my cello and I never had to worry about strings popping. I kept a set on there for a few years, which is not a good thing to do but when your on a budget it works out well.
This leads me into a lesson on strings, for my stringed musicians on here. The rule of thumb for us is you should change your strings once a year, however there are strings that will last longer. Just keep in mind the longer they stay on your instrument the more they will go "flat" and the more likely they will snap.
Now, what do I mean by a string going flat? Every string is constructed where they have a core, and the metal is wrapped around it. After a while the core will start to get worn out and it causes the string to vibrate less vividly and it gives a "flat" sound to the instrument. Another key feature to know about strings is that there is a break-in period that varies between the strings. The way it works for the Helicore strings is 5-7 days. That is a good time, but you need to remember that if you have a competition, audition, or a performance you need to be able to avoid getting stuck with spotty tuning.
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Thursday, June 28, 2012
Episode 10: Scale Theory
Hello and welcome back!
Sorry I haven't posted in the actual episodes in a while, but college seems to keep me busy no matter which way I turn. But today, our lesson is to explain what a scale is and give you some to practice!
First off, we need to figure out how to define a scale. A scale is a series of notes in an ascending or descending pattern. For example, let's start with the note C. There are many different scale involving the letter C but they have to follow some kind of pattern. As I said before there are many different types of scales, but the over all feel is there are two basic scales: a major and a minor. Just like they sound, the major scale sounds brighter than the minor. The whole understanding of scales goes back to understanding intervals, which was the topic of the last two episodes (episode 8 episode 9).
The basic progression of a Major scale is W W H W W W H, where W is a whole step and H is a half step. Now let's apply this to a scale, and since the basis of all music is C let's develop a C major scale. It starts on C, then a whole step up would lead to a D (C#- D), followed by a whole step to an E (D#- E) but then we hit the half step in which we get an F. A whole step to G (F#- G), then an A (G#- A), followed by another whole step to B (A#- B) and then we have our last half step back to C. So a C major scale is C D E F G A B C. Now, let's do another example with F. Start with the note given, and follow the intervals above. So a whole step above would be G, another whole step to A but then we get to the half step which we use Bb. Now we need another whole step to C, another whole step to D a final whole step to E and then the half step back to F. So the scale is F G A Bb C D E F. Ok, let do one last example with G. Follow the guide and you should get G A B C D E F# G. The F# in this example and the Bb in the previous one are ways to indicate a key. F# is the only sharp and the rule of key signatures is take the last sharp and raise it a half step. The trick to flat key signatures is take the second to last flat and that is your key, however the key of F is the only key that doesn't follow this rule. So if we went up to the next flat in the order of sharps and flats, it would be Eb but the key would be Bb.
Now the trick to minor scales is moving the pattern above back two spots. For example, the natural minor of C is A minor, and is played like C but starting on A. The same is true for the other scale above; the natural minor of F is D minor and the natural minor of G is E minor. The pattern is W H W W H W W. A minor would be A B C D E F G A, D minor would be D E F G A Bb C D, and finally E minor would be E F# G A B C D E.
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Tuesday, June 12, 2012
How to Practice Episode 3 - Don't get frustrated
Hello, and welcome back! Sorry for the delay but between getting ready for college, graduation, and the simple uncanny timing of life's messages has put me back a bit!
Now, on to the lesson: Not getting frustrated from practicing and not getting results. I know how hard that is, practicing the Haydn Cello Concerto No. 1 for the past month and still can't play a simple line that shouldn't take more than one or two times through to be able to preform. There are just some things in life that will get you down, and you must put effort to keep going through them and continue to practice them. Always remember the music is nothing more than ink on a piece of paper, or pixels on a screen. If you keep putting effort towards the song and continue to work on it constructively then you will see progress. Here are some examples of breaking a piece down:
If you notice that the piece is getting higher than the range you know how to play is, then practice a scale that resembles that phrase, or find a scale that gets you to go that high. In my previous statement of the Haydn Cello Concerto No. 1, I have problems with the highest part of the song that seems unapproachable. However, when you break the phrase down into it's fundamental level it is nothing more than a G major scale so I practice a G major scale in 3 octaves, focusing most of my effort on the last octave in tune and getting vibrato on the notes. Start off slowly, then build yourself up to the speed of the piece.
If you notice that there is a rhythm that you can't seem to play, then use "tick" marks, or a / above each beat, or subdivided beat. This one can explained to cellist, using the Haydn, with the whole thumb position phrase that is heard multiple times throughout the piece. If you write in those marks above the 8th note beat (the song is slow, and is normally conducted in 8 instead of 4), then it will help to count the piece/ Once you write in the notes then work slowly counting by clapping the beat out loud with a recording or your teacher play the phrase.
If you don't feel like you are remembering the dynamics enough, or your director says you aren't playing them enough then take the song and look for all the crescendos and decrescendos and use a "hot" color (red, orange or yellow) to indicate the crescendos and a "cool" color (green, blue or purple) to indicate the decrescendos. Experts have proven that colors pop out at you subcontiously and you will be reminded to play them. My only suggestion is not to do this on originals.
Now, on to the lesson: Not getting frustrated from practicing and not getting results. I know how hard that is, practicing the Haydn Cello Concerto No. 1 for the past month and still can't play a simple line that shouldn't take more than one or two times through to be able to preform. There are just some things in life that will get you down, and you must put effort to keep going through them and continue to practice them. Always remember the music is nothing more than ink on a piece of paper, or pixels on a screen. If you keep putting effort towards the song and continue to work on it constructively then you will see progress. Here are some examples of breaking a piece down:
If you notice that the piece is getting higher than the range you know how to play is, then practice a scale that resembles that phrase, or find a scale that gets you to go that high. In my previous statement of the Haydn Cello Concerto No. 1, I have problems with the highest part of the song that seems unapproachable. However, when you break the phrase down into it's fundamental level it is nothing more than a G major scale so I practice a G major scale in 3 octaves, focusing most of my effort on the last octave in tune and getting vibrato on the notes. Start off slowly, then build yourself up to the speed of the piece.
If you notice that there is a rhythm that you can't seem to play, then use "tick" marks, or a / above each beat, or subdivided beat. This one can explained to cellist, using the Haydn, with the whole thumb position phrase that is heard multiple times throughout the piece. If you write in those marks above the 8th note beat (the song is slow, and is normally conducted in 8 instead of 4), then it will help to count the piece/ Once you write in the notes then work slowly counting by clapping the beat out loud with a recording or your teacher play the phrase.
If you don't feel like you are remembering the dynamics enough, or your director says you aren't playing them enough then take the song and look for all the crescendos and decrescendos and use a "hot" color (red, orange or yellow) to indicate the crescendos and a "cool" color (green, blue or purple) to indicate the decrescendos. Experts have proven that colors pop out at you subcontiously and you will be reminded to play them. My only suggestion is not to do this on originals.
Wednesday, May 23, 2012
How to Practice: Episode 2 - Using YouTube and Recordings
Welcome Bach everyone! Today's tip of the day is on how to use YouTube and other forms of recording to your advantage. Teachers will not normally agree with this tip because watching the video too many times may go against what he or she is trying to teach. For example, search "Bach Cello Suite No. 1 Prelude" and look at how many results you get. Think about how many variants there are in each performance, because no two people will play it the exact same. However if you use this the way I believe is the best way to do, you will increase efficiency in your practicing.
YouTube has now become a world wide business for almost anything you want to see. You can go on there and search for videos on the "Traxxas Rustler" and find several thousand videos (When searched on 5/23/12, I found 13,900!), and as stated above if you search for "Bach Cello Suite No. 1 Prelude" you will find a large number of people preforming it (On 5/23/12 there was 4,720). Keywords does make a difference, however that's a topic for the end of the lesson. Anyways, as I said, when you search for Bach's Prelude from Suite No. 1, you see there are almost 5,000 performances of that song alone, and rarely does the same video get re-posted, so the overall possibilities are varied greatly. One person could begin with the first phrase (the phrase almost everyone recognizes when someone starts playing) very well, but make a small mistake in the second phrase. Then take another video and that person might play it very well throughout, but not stick to the stylistics perfectly throughout. There are many possible differences, and that is the 1st reason why this is a good way to practice: Find a couple recordings that suit either how you imagine the piece to sound or how your teacher thinks it should sound and begin listening to them constantly.
The more you listen to a piece, the more familiar you feel when you see the sheet music. Just picking up the sheet music, you can see how "insane" it looks, or how much of a push in mental and physical level that the piece will push you but unless you already know the piece the sheet music will look a little foreign. It's like when you go to a new school: You can see from the outside of the building that there are few classes, or many classes in the building. You can also tell when you get inside the same thing, but you see more than you did before, but until you actually walk around the school and see for yourself where everything is and know where you should be, the place is pretty much foreign territory to you. The same applies to music. You hear Prelude and you hear that there is a lot going on, but the melody is pretty straight forward. When you get the sheet music however, you see that there is a whole lot more to the sheet music than you anticipated (most people don't know that the piece is almost entirely 16th notes). But just from hearing you know that it is fairly simple to learn.
Another advantage of this tip is when you see some people playing the music, it helps develop fingerings and articulations you may or may not have thought about using before. For example, watch someone preform the Haydn Cello Concerto No. 1, and see how many possible fingerings there are for some of the actual performance. Same rule applies to articulations, if someone wasn't aware that Haydn was from the Classical time period and thought he was from the Baroque era, the articulations of his music would be entirely different. However, by listening to the music you can tell that he wasn't from the Baroque era.
Remember that this is no substitute for practicing, this is simply a tool to make practicing easier, and more efficient.
YouTube has now become a world wide business for almost anything you want to see. You can go on there and search for videos on the "Traxxas Rustler" and find several thousand videos (When searched on 5/23/12, I found 13,900!), and as stated above if you search for "Bach Cello Suite No. 1 Prelude" you will find a large number of people preforming it (On 5/23/12 there was 4,720). Keywords does make a difference, however that's a topic for the end of the lesson. Anyways, as I said, when you search for Bach's Prelude from Suite No. 1, you see there are almost 5,000 performances of that song alone, and rarely does the same video get re-posted, so the overall possibilities are varied greatly. One person could begin with the first phrase (the phrase almost everyone recognizes when someone starts playing) very well, but make a small mistake in the second phrase. Then take another video and that person might play it very well throughout, but not stick to the stylistics perfectly throughout. There are many possible differences, and that is the 1st reason why this is a good way to practice: Find a couple recordings that suit either how you imagine the piece to sound or how your teacher thinks it should sound and begin listening to them constantly.
The more you listen to a piece, the more familiar you feel when you see the sheet music. Just picking up the sheet music, you can see how "insane" it looks, or how much of a push in mental and physical level that the piece will push you but unless you already know the piece the sheet music will look a little foreign. It's like when you go to a new school: You can see from the outside of the building that there are few classes, or many classes in the building. You can also tell when you get inside the same thing, but you see more than you did before, but until you actually walk around the school and see for yourself where everything is and know where you should be, the place is pretty much foreign territory to you. The same applies to music. You hear Prelude and you hear that there is a lot going on, but the melody is pretty straight forward. When you get the sheet music however, you see that there is a whole lot more to the sheet music than you anticipated (most people don't know that the piece is almost entirely 16th notes). But just from hearing you know that it is fairly simple to learn.
Another advantage of this tip is when you see some people playing the music, it helps develop fingerings and articulations you may or may not have thought about using before. For example, watch someone preform the Haydn Cello Concerto No. 1, and see how many possible fingerings there are for some of the actual performance. Same rule applies to articulations, if someone wasn't aware that Haydn was from the Classical time period and thought he was from the Baroque era, the articulations of his music would be entirely different. However, by listening to the music you can tell that he wasn't from the Baroque era.
Remember that this is no substitute for practicing, this is simply a tool to make practicing easier, and more efficient.
Wednesday, May 16, 2012
How to Practice: Episode 1 - Start Slow
Hello everyone, and welcome to my new series on how to practice. There are many students who are wonderful musicians but don't know what it is like to practice a piece in a way that is easy, and effective, and that is why they don't practice as much as they should. So, in order to fight that urge (and yes, being a high school student heading off to college soon, I know how boring it is to practice at times!) I am starting a series to help people fight that urge and hopefully make you or your student(s) better musicians.
The most common problem I see as a cellist is people don't want to take music under tempo. If the piece is written at a presto, we as students want to preform the piece at that tempo or faster. So my advice to you is to slow it down! You don't need to have the tempo mastered when you are sight reading the for the first time (unless your in a competition and you must). Reducing the tempo will save you not only you stress, but will make you a better musician. By slowing it down when your learning the piece, you get to see the notes that normally might miss, or miss the stylistics that you need for a piece.
Music is about more than just going through a piece and hitting every note and hitting every dynamic. You need to respect the style of the piece (you can't play something Baroque in the same style you would play something like Metallica!), and should respect articulations (you shouldn't play something legato that should be spiccato or vice versa!). Practicing slowly helps improve those qualities of the music and makes more effect on less time.
The best way to tell what tempo you should take a piece is slow it down to the point that it doesn't sound like what you've heard or what the tempo is written as. Run through the piece multiple times at that tempo and do the following: 1st focus on the note accuracy; make sure you can play every note at that tempo and the pitch is correct. 2nd focus on the articulations and bowing/breath markings and enforce those because they are there to make the piece easier or to sound a certain way that the composer likes. Finally focus on the stylistics if there is a style listed.
After you have completed that several times and feel comfortable speeding up, then do so slowly. Only make tempo jumps in increments of no more than 5 BPM (beats per minute). This insures you are sure you know what you are playing. This process is a long way, however the payoff is you are creating beautiful music. There will be times this will be cumbersome, annoying, and possibly time consuming but I promise this is the way professional musicians like to practice.
If you have any questions about the material in any of my other series, anything music or what to see something else, send me a message on Twitter (@sulliadm), over Facebook (sulliadm) Google+ (sulliadm) or send me an email. If you liked what you are reading, or want me to continue with the series share my articles. It would be greatly appreciated!
The most common problem I see as a cellist is people don't want to take music under tempo. If the piece is written at a presto, we as students want to preform the piece at that tempo or faster. So my advice to you is to slow it down! You don't need to have the tempo mastered when you are sight reading the for the first time (unless your in a competition and you must). Reducing the tempo will save you not only you stress, but will make you a better musician. By slowing it down when your learning the piece, you get to see the notes that normally might miss, or miss the stylistics that you need for a piece.
Music is about more than just going through a piece and hitting every note and hitting every dynamic. You need to respect the style of the piece (you can't play something Baroque in the same style you would play something like Metallica!), and should respect articulations (you shouldn't play something legato that should be spiccato or vice versa!). Practicing slowly helps improve those qualities of the music and makes more effect on less time.
The best way to tell what tempo you should take a piece is slow it down to the point that it doesn't sound like what you've heard or what the tempo is written as. Run through the piece multiple times at that tempo and do the following: 1st focus on the note accuracy; make sure you can play every note at that tempo and the pitch is correct. 2nd focus on the articulations and bowing/breath markings and enforce those because they are there to make the piece easier or to sound a certain way that the composer likes. Finally focus on the stylistics if there is a style listed.
After you have completed that several times and feel comfortable speeding up, then do so slowly. Only make tempo jumps in increments of no more than 5 BPM (beats per minute). This insures you are sure you know what you are playing. This process is a long way, however the payoff is you are creating beautiful music. There will be times this will be cumbersome, annoying, and possibly time consuming but I promise this is the way professional musicians like to practice.
If you have any questions about the material in any of my other series, anything music or what to see something else, send me a message on Twitter (@sulliadm), over Facebook (sulliadm) Google+ (sulliadm) or send me an email. If you liked what you are reading, or want me to continue with the series share my articles. It would be greatly appreciated!
Wednesday, May 9, 2012
Video of the Month - Contest Results Preface!
This is the new series I will start up by picking a viewer submitted video of them playing an instrument and post it to here! Contest will be updated every 1st Friday of the month (after today) and the winner will get to have his or her video shared on my Facebook, Twitter, Youtube, and on here! This month I picked the video from other cellist, and as those you are on my twitter know I am a big fan of Star Wars! So this month's video is ThePianoGuys "Cello Wars (Star Wars Parody) Lightsaber Duel". Hope everyone enjoys, and don't forget to find me on Twitter and Facebook!
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Tuesday, May 8, 2012
Episode 4: Defining the Signatures
Hello, and welcome back to this week's episode on Sulliadm's Music Theory Blog! This week's lesson is explaining the two signatures: Time and Key signatures.
Friday, May 4, 2012
How to Better My Site?
I was wanting people to let me know how can I make my blog better. If you think you have an idea, comment it below, or follow the links I've posted around the page to Facebook, Twitter, Google+ or more classically shoot me an email! However for every comment you make, I would like for you to forward my homepage URL to at least 15 people. Make it into a chain message, or a chain text message... It doesn't matter but just get the word about my page to as many people as you can! I want to continue doing this blog, and expand into a music critique sight as well but I need more views in order for me to take away from my busy schedule (heading off to college in a few months!) and make these post every week or so. So don't be afraid to make a comment on my page, just spread the word! Please!
Friday, April 27, 2012
Episode 3: Treble and Bass Clef
Hello everyone,
Today's lesson is on the different clefs, which are Treble Clef and Bass Clef. Treble clef or G clef as it is more commonly called, is the clef that is commonly used today within music. Many instruments use it, such as violin, flute, oboe, clarinet, xylophone, and guitar. There are times where lower instruments, such as cello, bass and trombone, must read this cleft as well but this isn't always true. Those instruments, and many others, use the Bass clef, or F clef as it is more commonly called, to read music naturally. There are more than simply these two clef, but in order to keep everything simple for the lesson we will stick to learning just these two today.
The reason for why treble clef is called G clef is because the loop on the clef is the note G and is the G above middle C. The lowest note on the picture above is middle C, and in this case, the picture is a C major scale. As discussed in the last episode, there are intervals between notes and a Scale is a series of these intervals. C major is C-D-E-F-G-A-B-C, or interval wise, where W is a whole step and H is half step, is W-W-H-W-W-W-H. This interval pattern will work on all major scales, for example G major is G-A-B-C-D-E-F#-G, or F major would be F-G-A-Bb-C-D-E-F. You can keep experimenting with any notes on the keyboard to find the scales.
Now, this is the Bass clef, also called an F clef. The reason it is called the F clef, like the G clef, is it circles around the note F. However, the same is not true about middle C, the top of the scale is considered middle C. This is also a C major scale, only an octave lower than the one shown before. An Octave is a set of notes that are played with two different places on the staff than the same one. For example, there is an octave jump from the low C to the high C in the picture above. Similarly, there is an octave jump from the lower C on the treble clef than the higher one. Also note the pattern for the scale is the same as with the treble clef, this being a C major scale.
I will expand of each staff specifically in a few days. Thanks for reading, and don't forget to subscribe and follow me on Twitter or Facebook for more information and suggestions for future ideas, like mini video series and contest!
Friday, April 20, 2012
Now on Facebook!
Hello again! Just a quick reminder that I am in fact on Twitter (@sulliadm) and on Youtube (www.youtube.com/sulli00700), but along with that, I am on Google+ and now on Facebook! Along with that, if you have any questions, comments, statements or any feedback at all and none of those seem to works, hit me with an email! I want to answer all of your questions you have to offer about theory or anything about music in general!
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